Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Can Cau Market

It's hard to keep up with the blog, it takes up a whole lot of time, selecting pictures and explaining everything, but I take it more like an "auto-disciplinary" activity....being on holidays but not really, at least I have an obligation that brings me down to earth and helps me keep a critical look on what I see and experience day after day. And seeing other travellers around that just travel for looong periods of time doing nothing but drink all the time doesn't help me want to do the same ;-)

Having said that, here goes Can Cau market !

Every saturday morning is held in Can Cau, a small town north of Bac Ha, an incredibly colourful market. So after our first night in Bac Ha, we had an early start on saturday, grabbed a motorbike and rode all the way up to Can Cau, it's about 1h ride...but the landscapes, once again, are incredible ! And the fog helps to make them better!


Can Cau is specially attractive for visitors due to the "Flower Hmong" that run it. The Flower Hmong are called like this because of their fascinating colourful dresses. They also have their own language and most of them don't speak vietnamese. The market is the best excuse to socialize with other villagers, but not only this !


You can get barely anything you want, from souvenirs (for tourists...yeah...), to a delicious (?) meal overlooking the rice fields



buy to vegetables to make your own,



....and animals ! Pigs, horses, buffalos, dogs, ducks, chicken...anything !



Who guesses what is going to happen to this poor little pig ? Whoever guesses right will get the picture of what goes next...



And around 9am, when the sun starts to hit a bit harder, the umbrellas come out to add even more color to the market.



Three hours later we decided to head back to Bac Ha. Even though the reliability of the helmets we were given was pretty limited, mine was hanging too much so I stopped on the side of the road, in front of a house to fix it.

In the house, a huge family was getting ready for lunch when one of the men invited us to join in ! We were moved by their hospitality, starting with a super alcoholic shot which ressembled more to ethanol than any kind of alcoholic drink I ever tasted before. And then we had the best meal we had had so far in Vietnam : Rice, omlet, cow, tofu....

They spoke as much English as we spoke Vietnamese, but with our guidebook's small dictionnary and body language we had a great time.

Around the "table", women and men ate the same food, but served in different plates; the children sharing the same plates with the women. Whenever a man wanted some extra food from the women's side they would serve it into the men's plate before he would have any. We were told that these are traditional customs in Vietnam, not practiced anymore in the ever-developing big cities, but I guess it's still happening in the countryside !

We joined the women's side, also closer to the door...but were invited to tea with the men after lunch.

Maybe Minh can help us on that one ?


After lunch we intended to pay for what we had but they refused over and over again...

We had a great time and found the "welcoming" vietnam that we had heard about that contrasts with the "bussiness-minded / rip-off" Vietnam we had seen so far.

PS : If you want to rent motorbikes in Bac Ha, be aware that it is more expensive than in Sapa as there is only one family that rents bikes there ! But you should get away for 5-6USD/day.

6 comments:

Bobolze said...

Allez un peu d'encouragement pour ton blog. Il est pas trop mal!!! Les photos de cet article sont passables et ca donne presque envie d'y aller.

Est-ce que tu reussis a capter les matches de foot dans les Alpes locales?

Serieux continue d'ecrire!

Unknown said...

We realise that it must be very very hard to keep us eager to receive news from exotic places but, please please, do not give up! we really appreciate it and look forward to it every day
kss to both of u Olga

Nika said...

T'es dur Bobolze...bon j'avoue que je peux pas faire beaucoup mieux, peut etre qu'un jour ca passera d'etre "pas trop mal" a "bien" ! XD

Sinon oui, on capte les match de foot mais avec des levers à 6am, les matchs de 9pm sont durs à suivre plus de 20min ...et ne parlons pas de ceux de 1h30 du mat !

Olga : Tranquila, seguire, sobretot amb seguidores com vosaltres !
Un peto !

Minh said...

Là j'avoue que tu connais mieux cette partie de mon pays que moi, et tu connais même les soi-disant traditions que j'ignore complètement (mais j'aime bien revenir à un temps quand les hommes dominaient encore la société mouhaha)

planas.montserrat said...

que maques les fotos amb la familia!!

segueix fent el blog!! que a mi m'agrada molt seguir les aventures!!!

muaaa

Mireia said...

oh lai la, la mesovera se'n va al mercat...!! mola mola!
tia, tu segueix fent el blog, eehh?? tot i q ja sé q el segueixes fent, pq tinc un munt de posts endarrerits per llegir, però...val la pena!! q ho passo molt bé, en veritat!! ;)