Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Tow-ropes

AS I mentioned in my last article, tow-ropes are the equivalent of ski lifts in the backcountry ski fields.

Citing Wikipedia :


The rider wears a harness around the hips. To this is attached a clamp, much like the nutcracker from which it derives its name, which the rider attaches to the rope.




This eliminates the need to hold on with the hands, reducing fatigue and allowing faster tows. The nutcracker device is essential on longer and steeper tows, as the rope runs over pulleys to keep it off the ground.


First, one should hold the rope with the closest hand to it



and when one is advancing at the same speed as the rope, tighten the nutcracker and hold on !

In New Zealand, rope tows with nutcrackers epitomize the rugged, 'back to basics' character of club skifields and the nutcracker remain the norm at club fields such as Tukino, Maunganui, Mt Lyford, Hanmer Springs, Temple Basin, Broken River, Craigieburn, Fox Peak, Mt Olympus, Awakino.

Nothing else to add....

....just that I'd never had my hands that close to pulleys. Scary !

Monday, August 16, 2010

Craigieburn, first ski field experience

Después del calentamiento en Mt Hutt el primer dia, ya estabamos listos para probar los ski fields. Para los que no saben lo que son, son pequeñas estaciones, más pequeña que la más pequeña de los pirineos para daros una idea, que estan casi completamente virgenes. Los telesillas y telearrastres que comunmente conocemos son sustituidos por tow ropes, que viene a ser una cuerda sujetada por una polea cada 20 o 30 metros a la que cada esquiador se ata para subir hasta arriba. Más detalles sobre el funcionamiento de estos misteriosos tow ropes más adelante.

Asi que volvamos a nuestros ski fields, en estos pequeños paraisos no existen máquinas que repasen las "pistas" por la noche. En una estacion hay unas 3 o 4 cuerdas seguidas la una detras de la otra que llevan al esquiador hasta arriba del todo (en algunos casos). Y de ahi, uno es libre de ir donde quiera, de cargar los esquís al hombro e ir un poco más lejos o de contentarse con alguna que otra travesia y explorar nuevas pistas.

Para nuestro primer dia decidimos ir con Black Diamond Safari, negocio llevado por una pareja de esquiadores, Simon y Heather, cuyo fin es llevar esquiadores a los diferentes ski fields, enseñarles como funciona e introducirles al mecanismo de los tow ropes.

Después de poner cadenas en el coche, llegamos al parking, como vereis no habia mucha gente....y esto incluye los que tienen casitas escondidas entre los arboles.

Una vez los esquis cargados al hombro y comprado el forfait (que no es ningun regalo...65NZD para 3 cuerdecitas....) nos familiarizamos con nuestra primera tow rope.



Cogemos el tranquillo bastante rapido y llegamos arriba donde nos esperaban unas vistas espectaculares.


Después de la foto de rigor,


Hacemos una primera bajada. Y ahi va donde ya empiezo a hacer de las mias. Ben baja primero hasta despues del cambio de pendiente donde debia esperarnos aunque no nos pudiera ver. Yo sigo, una curva, dos curvas...tres, cuatro....y alli estrené mi "libro de caidas", y esta no estuvo mal. Suerte que la nieve era blandita ;-) 3 volteretas y los 2 esquis perdidos. Heather que bajaba después me bajo un esqui...pero aun faltaba uno. Asi que nada, a cavar, entre una pala y un esqui, levantamos toda la zona hasta que vimos unas trazas de frenos de los esquis que salian cuesta abajo. En efecto, 30 minutos despues, calzé un esquí y despacito llegué adonde se habia parado el otro.....

Y a todo eso, Ben llevaba 30 minutos esperando sin tener noticias.... empezamos bien ! Asi que nos dio tiempo a hacer solo una bajada mas (pero qué bajada !)



antes de devorar una buena hamburguesa para comer.


Pero durante la comida no perdimos el tiempo, y vimos a un tipo que dejaba su huella en un pasillo al que nos dirigiriamos despues de comer. Cuerda arriba, esquis en la espalda y a caminar un ratito....

Pero fue bueno, muy bueno !

Después de un dia entero esquiando en nieve profunda, un merecido descanso en la cumbre de Craigieburn estaba más que merecido !




En estos ski fields ha en general "huts" en los que se puede dormir si uno quiere. Por lo visto es mejor traer saco de dormir ya que no estan siempre equipados y puede hacer bastante frio. Si uno quiere quedarse un par de dias en un mismo ski field puede ser una buena opcion, ya que en general son dificiles de acceso. En general incluyen desayuno y cena, depende de los ski fields.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Skiing in Kiwiland !

As soon as we landed in Christchurch, we grabbed the rental car, got familiarised with the left-handside driving and drove to Methven, where we would base-camp at least for the first few days.

To warm up, we headed to Mount Hutt the next day, a commercial ski field similar to what we are used to in Europe, with ski lifts. We got there pretty late after renting the skis and crossing many many people that where coming down from the field due to abd weather.

A nice surprise to start with :



Chains even for 4WD needed to go up !

Sooooooooooo, how does this worrrkk ?


Luckily some guy who probably saw us (or rather Ben) struggling with the chains came to give us a hand...



Only two of the 4 ski lifts were open ( i tot aixo pel modic preu de 89NZD, uns 50€, que no hi ha preu de mitja jornada!) but at least the sky cleared up as soon as we reached the parking lot and we had enough time to enjoy both the skiing and the scenery !



It was probably the first time I saw the sea from the mountains while skiing !


PS : In Methven, we stayed at the welcoming Alpenhorn Chalet, a warm nice hostel that we strongly recommend !

Friday, August 6, 2010

Bye Bye Sydney

Congratulations to Matthieu & Rosella again !


We hope you enjoyed the song on the rythm of "Nathalie, mon amour des JMJ" !

With a nice view on the harbour at night



and a strong thunderstorm we leave sydney and head to New Zealand for some skiing hopefully !

Com a petit resum, Sydney segueix sent la ciutat maca i agradable que recordava, i no costa creure que els que hi viuen gaudeixen d'una qualitat de vida gens menyspreable: pels amants de surf és possible anar a surfejar abans i després de la feina ! Els horaris de feina son de 9 a 5, i es veu que els repecten bastant !

Ara bé, suposo que la qualitat de vida es paga d'alguna manera: tot és extremadament car (no arriba als nivells de Londres pero si als de moltes grans ciutats europees), i la veritat, costa fer-se una idea de l'australià mitjà (si és que existeix) ja que a Sydney costa trovar-ne. Està plagat de turistes (fins i tot a l'hivern) i de "backpackers" extrangers que s'aprofiten del visat adaptat que té Australia (Work & Travel) que permet treballar i viatjar durant 1 any.

Perquè els backpackers aqui (i a la resta d'Austràlia pel que sembla) si que és un negoci. Totes les botiges, bars & co. estan plens de treballadors extranjers que s'hi queden uns mesos mentre estalvien alguns calerons per seguir viatjant. I els albergs tenen publictitat per tot arreu per activitats "for budget-conscious-travellers"...pero a l'estandar de preus australià que no té res a veure amb els vietnamites o indonesis com us podeu imaginar !

Una cosa que m'ha sorprès és la penosa qualitat de les conexions internet. A Austràlia internet es paga per quantitat de dades intercanviades amb la xarxa (res de tarifes planes !). Les conexions son bastant lentes i es veu que Australia està lligada a la xarxa de Singapur i a la de USA i no tenen infraestructures propies. Suposo que aixo explica que no hi hagi internet gratis enlloc (excepte al Mc Donald's!) i totes les xarxes wifi estiguin securitzades, no fos cas que algun lladre robés algunes desenes de Mb que van molt cars !
El govern s'ha posat mans a la obra, i ja era hora !

Merci à tous les clankestins (et Anne-Laure et Elisa) pour ces retrouvailles à l'autre bout du monde et surtout merci à Matthieu de nous y avoir emmenés !

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Blue Mountains

A apenas 2h (7,80AUD) en tren de Central Station en Sydney se encuentra Katoomba, pueblo (ciudad?) situada a proximidad de las Blue Mountains.

Alli fuimos a pasar 2 dias con todo el grupo despues de la despedida de soltero de Matthieu. Y descubrimos, bueno, comprobamos mas bien (!) lo que es la inercia de grupo...cueeeeeeeeesta moverse !



Mientras los demas hacian sus compras de viveres para el mediodia (buena hora para empezar a caminar no?), Michou esperaba pacientemente....


Existen bastantes caminos y paseos en las citadas Blue Mountains, en su mayoria tan bien señalizados que hay incluso escaleras y barandas para que los guiris no se caigan ! XD En todo caso los paisajes son bonitos,



y por suerte no habia demasiada gente asi que JD y Victor tuvieron que ingeniarselas para intentar hacer alguna foto de grupo !



Ahi redactamos (compusimos?) la cancion que cantamos a Matthieu durante la boda...mañana mas !

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Enterrement de vie de garçon (Despedida de Soltero)

La grande excuse qui nous a tous regroupés à Sydney cette semaine c'était quand même le mariage de Matt !


Après quelques essais de surf à Bondi Beach (et des problèmes pour enfiler des combis, hein Wiiiiictor ?), des promenades dans la ville, il fallait quand même enterrer sa vie de garçon ! Voilà la journée en quelques images...

Courses faites, on se dirige, à 19, vers le catamaran que JB s'était chargé de louer pour faire un tour dans la baie de Sydney.


Grand beau, petite brise qui va bien, et apéro en main, on se pose à l'avant du catamaran




on profite d'une excellente vue de la skyline de Sydney (o sky high per algun(e)s, no ?)


pour prendre quelques photos ! (c'est miiiiiignoooooooooooon, n'est ce pas dude ?)



Notre excellent skipper prépare les saussisses au BBQ



pendant que les plus courageux plongent et testent l'eau australienne sans combi !



Et après tout ça....Matt' nous a fait une petite démonstration (non, on ne l'a pas du tout forcé !)


Désolée Rose, le reste est censuré !

Et puis sur le chemin du retour on a sorti les bonnets, lunettes de soleil et vestes pour continuer la séance photo. Voilà une partie de la clankes...



...et la Ray Ban Team !


De retour sur terre, la fête a continué sur le balcon du YHA d'abord avec un magnifique arc-en-ciel sur l'Opéra House,



and much more !

Mais les filles n'étaient pas invitées au reste de la soirée :-) même si les indonésiens et vietnamiens avaient tendance à me prendre pour un garçon ...

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

It's winter down here !

It's been a while since I last updated the blog, but I have a couple of lame excuses for that :
- my fingers where frozen by the winter time !
- too busy hanging out with Ben and la Clankes-team that I hadn't seen for a long time !
- As unbelievable as it can be, internet access in Sydney is not as easy as one would believe : none of the wifi networks are unsecurised and internet is actually pretty expensive !

It's probably a bit of each of them but I was actually leaving you some time to catch up ;-)

Anyways, here I go again !

Arrivée de Bali, le contraste de température a été un peu dur à encaisser : surtout à Sydney où malgré avoir été acceuillie par le soleil, le chauffage dans les maisons n'est pas trop à la mode.

Venint de Bali, el contrast de temperatura ha estat una mica dur d'assimilar ! sobretot a Sydney, on tot i haver estat acollida pel sol, la calefaccio a les cases sembla que no esta molt de moda !

Pero aixo no em va impedir de sortir a passejar amb la Laia que feia teeeeeemps que no veia desde que va marxar a refugiar-se a ca'ls cangurs !

Dimanche on en a profité avec Julien et Damien (merci pour l'acceuil d'ailleurs !) pour aller surfer (en combi cette fois...et on faisait pas les malins !) à Royal National park, un petit coin sauvage qu'on a du mal à croire qu'il puisse être à à peine 50km de Sydney.

Soon, les aventures de la Clankes chez les kangourous !

Friday, July 23, 2010

Australian Humor ?




and for the non-virgins ? ;-)

Par contre, autant aux states quand on déclare ou pas les fruits (ou saucissons qu'on a dans le sac) ils vérifient rarement, en australie ça rigole moins ! J'avais deux tomates et du pain et comme d'habitude je n'avais rien déclaré. Sauf qu'à l'arrivée, après récupération des baggages il faut les passer aux rayons X... Donc la femme a bien trouvé mes tomates, et m'a dit que normalement c'était 110AUD d'amande (sympa...).

Au final j'ai du faire des petits yeux comme le chat de shrek...

... et c'est passe !

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Being a woman alone in Bali...

...is not always easy! But can sometimes help...

Riding the motorbike from Sanur back to Kuta, I followed at least a dozen motorbikes that also overtook the line of cars slightly invading the oposite lane to stop at the front of the red light line.

So, surprisingly, the policemen decided to stop the only non- balinese of the crowd, this was me ! So I stopped next to their hut and he said:

- police check
- okay, hello...
- driving licence ?

So I gave him my spanish licence (I didn't have an international driving licence anyways).

- oh, no international ? come in...

So the other policemen staying inside stared at me, still wearing the helmet :

- is that you ?
- yes, why ?
- are you a boy or a girl ?
okaaaaaay.... so I took my helmet off and told him that my international driving licence was in the renter's office because they asked for it when I rented the bike (si cola, cola !)
He didn't really believe me but I tried...and anyways, he didn't care really, I didn't have it on me, that's all that counts !
I had my bag on me and he asked me where I was going...
- I'm going to the airport, going home today.
- look, the fine for not having the international driving licence is this (250.000Rp ~25USD)
- yeah...sorry but this is all the money I have left.
And I showed him 11.000Rp (~1€) that I had put in my pocket when I was asked to show my driving licence...and he stared at my sunglasses
- are they original ?
ooooooh shit...
- no...
- oh, they are cheap, you bought them here ?
- yes, yes..

And he looked away (pfffffff....)

And from that moment on, it was freestyle, questions ranging from "do you have a boyfriend ? " to "You don't want a balinese policemen as boyfriend? it can be useful", "come to my home"....

So I had to promise him that next time I would come to Bali it would be without my boyfriend and that I would stay at his place....but at least he let me go and said : "okay for this time, because it is you, you can go without pay"...

Thank you....

(perez, sé que entre aixo i el virgin loo t'agradara cada cop més aquest blog XD !)

Kitesurfing Paradise !

Back from Lembogan...at least 15knots were blowing in Sanur. I had no intention of going straight back to Kuta at 9:30am so either I moved on to Ubud to visit a little bit of the inland Bali, or I stayed and kitesurfed in Sanur.

Although kitesurfing was overpriced, I didn't really feel like visiting more ricefields after Vietnam and decided it was time for me to see if it the problem was the kite or me. ;-)

Sanur is a calm touristy city where resorts are aligned on the beachfront. Some fishermen still remain...



and women offering massages on the beach escort you when you walk : otherwise you would not be in Bali !


Tout d'abord, permettez-moi de vous présenter la piscine du resort que j'ai squatté à chaque fois que je suis allée à Sanur. Il suffit de récupérer une serviette qui traine sur un des transats pour passer complètement inapercue ;-)



Et ça c'est l'espèce de laguna dans laquelle les kitesurfers se gavent : vent légèrement onshore mais la laguna est protégée par le corail et à marée basse c'est tout plat !




Moi j'ai kité le matin quand il y avait quelques vagues mais c'était déjà le bonheur !

Après, aux heures de pointe on se croirait vraiment à tarifa...


Donc voilà, super contente, j'ai navigué un peu, remonté au vent (youhouuu !) et même sauté un peu (très peu, je vous rassure). Juste comme ça....


Et puis bon, quelques petites plaies et des bleus au tibia :-)

Le mono était tout un personnage : après m'avoir dit que de loin il pensait que j'étais un mec, il n'a pas arrêté de me draguer et de négocier de bisous touuuut le long... en même temps avec son 1m50 il était un peu ridicule à côté, haha !

Sinon, entre Sanur et Kuta il doit y avoir une petite demie-heure de trajet ... mais elle peut s'avérer un peu plus longue et stressante parfois !

More on that tomorrow !

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

People of the World : Jesha

Trust me, after the last rainy days in Sapa (Northwest Vietnam) my clothes really needed laundry. As soon as I got to Bali we went straight to Gili Air and hadn't had the chance to bring my stuff to laundry...so my clothes and shoes were in a state you would not have wanted to be anywhere near them ! Once back to Kuta - Legian actually - I went to a small laundry place to drop my clothes off. And there was Jesha, a 31 year old lovely woman with whom I stayed for about 30 to 45 minutes when I was only meant to drop off my laundry. She guessed I has 16 years old... nice guess !



Mother of six, she lost her oldest kid due to an infection before being left by her husband 7 years ago because she hadn't had any girls.

She now runs two laundry businesses and is in charge of two of her remaining 5 kids.

She asked me where I was staying and what was I going to do when my friend left (Fred). Worried about me, she offered me her room upstairs where she rests sometimes. Almost apologising she told me that the room had almost nothng, only "fridge, TV, DVD, fan"...okay, that's about the most luxurious place we've been ! So we came back with Fred to check out the room and stayed there, for 50.000Rp/night, for both of us ! This is probably the best deal ever in Kuta....and in high season !




We then invited her out to dinner, and stopped by every day at the laundry to have a short chat or to leave some laundry for which she would continously refuse to be paid !

She would always make fun of her 14-year-old son who tried to help her out at the laundry sometimes.... and could only iron 1 piece/hour ! Because she could do around 500/day !

When I went by to say good-bye she wondered how was I going to go to the airport and told her I would grab a taxi (my flight was leaving at 1:40am) so she begged me to come by whenever I wanted to leave so taht she could take me. I say beg, but it was actually non-negotiable.

It was a pleasure to see that even in the heart of the busy Kuta you can still find such great people.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Around Lembogan

I wanted action...i had it ! After the two dives and 3h of surfing in the morning I decided to go explore around the island. I was hoping to rent a bike and ride up and down the hill for a a couple hours before sunset... but the bike-renter never showed up. So I started on foot, passed by many private houses and nice kids that loved pictures !



and when I was approaching the bridge that linked Lembogan to Ceningan Island I got a ride from some local man who was heading to work !



Once on the bridge, I crossed it on foot...but you'd better watch out if you wanted to avoid surprises !





At least the panorama by low tide was gorgeous.


Yoni, a young 18-year old local kid was riding his motorbike when he stopped to talk to me. I barely had one hour of sunlight left and he told me I should go all the way up the hill to see the panorama....no time left ! So he offered me a ride on his bike ! Needless to say I wasn't that confident on the bike, riding fast on irregular steep roads, but he was pretty good after all ! And the traditional question didn't miss : "Do you have a boyfriend?" ;-)



Un cop de tornada al pont, em quedaven dues hores a peu si volia tornar cap a la platja on tenia la meva bossa, i per sort, van passar dues motos i una d'elles encara tenia un lloc lliure ;-)

Aixi que no corta ni perezosa, els hi vaig demanar..i resulta que eren catalans ! El mon és molt petit. Aixi que al final vaig acabar dormint als bungalows d'en Jordi, la Joana i l'Alessio, uns bungalows espectaculars perduts bastant endins de l'illa.

L'endemà, dimarts 13, volia tornar amb el nou vaixell public que en teoria existia a les 3pm també aixi aprofitava per fer surf al mati.

I aixi vaig fer...llàstima que era dimarts 13, no tot podia anar bé :

- vaig llogar la taula de surf i tota motivada vaig anar al "spot" que estava com un plat, ni onades ni res...i quan van arribar les onades ja estava cansada de tant remar ! XD

- En una de les onades el leash va passar tant a prop de la meva orella...que em va arrencar una arrecada i la vaig perdre :-(

- cap a la 1pm vaig anar a tornar la taula, dinar i marxar per agafar el vaixell, pero...sorpresa ! "Oh no, no public slow boat today, no customers" Vaig intentar fer cara de desesperada, dient que tenia el meu avio aquella tarda, pero nah de nah, hi havia una cua de gent a la que li havien dit el mateix pero que no els hi havia molestat pagar 3 cops mes car per agafar un "fast boat" (ja em direu, guanyen 45min...). En fi, que am vaig haver de quedar una altra nit al poble.

- els que van anar a fer sumbarinisme un dia després meu van veure el Mola-mola ! quina rabia !

Doncs res, a passar la tarda sense fer gaire res, pero al menys vaig poder degustar l'especie de puré de peix amb cacauets que venen al poble embolicats en pell de platan per...0,10€ !


I si, l'endemà a les 8 vaig poder agafar el famos "slow-boat"...





PS : Fyi, tourist price for the public slow boat between Sanur and Lembogan is 60.000 Rp (~6USD); it runs daily at 8am (and eventually at 3pm during high season but its definetely not reliable, trust me on this one!) and takes around 1h30. The faster boats run more often and cost anything between 100.000 - 200.000Rp/OW.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Lembogan Island - Scuba Diving & Surfing

I still had 5 days left and had no intention of staying in Kuta for this long. Fred had an ear-infection and couldn't do much, not even catch a plane to leave the island ! So I left him in the nice fancy room in Kuta, grabbed my motorbike without knowing exactly where I wanted to go : Ubud, Amed...

After 2h of riding I got fed up with the big trucks and the balinese traffic and decided to run away from it and grab the ferry boat to Lembogan Island where I could also go Scuba Diving.



Todos los barcos traicionales Balineses tienen una especie de "brazos" flotantes exteriores al barco....y cuando hay bastante mar deben ayudar a flotar, pero tambien a empapar a los viajeros !





Lembogan is a fishermen island, nothing to do with the Gilis...except that tourism is growing at a very fast pace and when one reaches the island it can be a little surprising to slalom between "funship"s and platforms set for tourists taht want to spend a day on board, before reaching an island where luxury villas invade the northern coast and fishermen try to recover their seaweed in between the parked boats along the beach.




At low tide, all the fishermen appear suddently to collect their seaweed and the panorama changes radically.




When I was in Lembogan, low tide was in the evening so fishermen would sort and lay their seaweed under the sun during the day before go fetch new one the next day.





Seaweed is basically used for our western cosmetics (and probably super expensive ones !) although the local fishermen only sell them for 5000Rp/kg (50c€). You may want to think again before buying a 40€ lotion...

After checking out a couple rooms I decided I would stay on the beach again, couldn't be bothered to pay the price they were asking for when the climate is sool nice and all you can see at night from the beach are the stars above you !

Et ensuite j'ai rencontré Melanie, finalement quelqu'un qui, comme moi, n'aime pas Bali ! Donc on a bien discuté, mangé un gros pancake à l'ananas et j'ai finalement été dormir dans son bungalow en cachette car le proprio a vu en moi l'occasion de gratter des Roupies supplémentaires pour une même chambre ! Bref, on s'en est bien sorties et le lendemain matin je suis sortie tôt et y ai échappé à 5 minutes près !

Diving time ! On avait prévu 3 plongées dans la journée, dont les deux premières profondes, mais le capitaine du bateau n'en voulait faire que deux car l'après-midi il avait une cérémonie (crémation). Et s'ils tiennent à quelque chose ici, à part salir leur pays, c'est
à la religion.




Tenia muchas esperanzas puestas en estos buceos ya que por una vez iba sola con el monitor y otro dive-master. Pero fue bastante desastroso. Esperabamos vez peces grandes y el mola mola ! Pero no aparecio...nos quedamos con dos rayas aguila, poca visibilidad, una nube de arena y muchisima corriente.... asi que bajamos a 40m para no ver nada ! Es lo que hay....

En el segundo buceo, mas tranquilo, si el monitor no hubiera ido extremadamente rapido y a 5m del coral hubiesemos podido ver algo. Pero a mi que me cuenten el interes de ir tan rapido, pagar 35USD por un buceo si es para no ver casi nada y salir con 130bar en la botella al cabo de 1h... yo me podria quedar mucho mas ! Asi que ni sola con el monitor no puedo utilizar mas de media botella de aire.

Después de los buceos y una comida rapida, me habian hablado de una ola pequeñita en un lado de la isla asi que alquilé una plancha y fui ! 2h despues estaba rebentada...pero al menos no me podia quejar, habia hecho deporte !